Move over Diani, Watamu, and Mombasa.
Today, it’s all about a place that is chock full of history, laid-back friendly locals, rich culture, charming architecture (a fusion of Swahili, Arabic, Persian, Indian, and European) and pristine beaches.
Hello Lamu.
View this post on Instagram
What's Covered in This Article
The One Transfer
Myself and three other friends flew Safarilink to Lamu, just over an hour’s plane ride from Nairobi.
Safarilink has daily direct flights from Wilson to Manda airport.
I was particularly impressed how seriously the airline adheres to the Ministry of Health Safety Protocols. On entering the lounge, there was an automatic temperature check, and all baggage is sanitized as it goes through the security scan.
It was also mandatory for all to wear surgical masks both in the Safarilink dedicated lounge, and throughout the flight to ensure everyone’s safety.
View this post on Instagram
Other airlines such as Fly540 and Skywards Express also ply that route leaving Nairobi from JKIA and Wilson respectively.
There are also flights from Mombasa with Skyward Express.
An Uber ride for airport transfer upon arrival to Lamu?
Nope!
Issa shared wooden dhow airport transfer. But if you’re rolling in dough, consider taking a private speedboat ride.
You can also take the SGR to Mombasa, where you then take another bus to Mokowe, which is the nearest bus terminal to Lamu.
Alternatively, once in Mombasa, go to Malindi and stay a couple days. Thereafter, take a bus to Mokowe.
The One Hotel
If its your first time in Lamu, I’d recommend you stay in Lamu mainland in Lamu town as it’s a great point to leave for excursions and has multiple affordable eating spots.
AirBnBs and Guest Houses in Lamu town are right within the neighborhood so works for the adventurous cultural traveler who also loves to interact with locals during travel.
I spent one night at Jambo House, a highly rated budget hotel located right in the heart of Lamu Old Town.
Jambo House has a sumptuous breakfast selection, it is squeaky super clean, very affordable (US $18 for a double room), and out-of-this-world rooftop views.
Ask for Lamu room that opens to an outer balcony and reserve a couple of hours for cocktail sipping in the rooftop, with views of the surrounding houses and the ocean afar.
View this post on Instagram
In Shela, I’d recommend Stopover Guesthouse (very clean + great views right off the Shela jetty).
If you want to splurge, Manda is the place.
Some of the high end hotels here include The Majlis Resort, Manda Bay Lodge, among others.
If private and secluded off-the beaten track are your kind of accommodation, then definitely check out The Cabanas in Kipungani.
View this post on Instagram
The One Landmark
One of Lamu’s oldest buildings, Lamu Fort is an ex-Omani fortress centrally located about 70 meters from the main Lamu jetty is the city’s unofficial symbol.
Originally located right at the seafront, the Fort was positioned to get the best views of the city.
Built between 1813 and 1821 with help from the Omani assistance, The Fort built from stone stands in stark contrast from the other modish Swahili architecture of the other adjacent buildings in the town.
View this post on Instagram
In 1910, the British colonial administration converted Lamu Fort into a prison and continued to be used as a prison even after the independence of Kenya until 1984 when it was declared a scheduled monument in 15 May 1984.
Thereafter, It was handed over to the National Museums of Kenya, who converted the fort into a museum with assistance from the Swedish International Development Cooperation Agency (Sida) in restoration works.
Lamu Fort is currently a museum but also used as an event arena by the local community for meetings, weddings and public performances. As at the time of my visit, Lamu court sessions are also being held at the rooftop of the Fort to allow for adherence to social distancing protocols which are a challenge at the regular court house.
Your KES 100/ US$ 1 entrance ticket (KSH 500/US $5 for non-residents) to Lamu Fort also grants you access to the Lamu Museum.
The Fort makes a great starting point for Lamu mainland wanderings.
The One Market
The Lamu Municipal Market , set in the Lamu Old Town off Lamu’s main drag, Kenyatta Avenue, hosts hundreds of traders selling everything from meat, fresh sea food, to fresh fruits and vegetables among other things.
Currently under renovation, traders have been relocated around the corner to Mkunguni Square.
As you wade the narrow alleys, be prepared to fight for space with traders and fellow shopers stray cats, donkeys, and goats.
Its however one of the best ways to experience Lamu at its rawest, learn about the locals, their traditions and way of life.
So worth it!
The One Cuisine
Two things you can expect to consume loads of in Lamu are Swahili dishes (think pilau, biryani, coconut rice, mahamri, coconut beers, mshikaki, etc) and sea food.
But with so many options, picking just one can be tough.
Definitely try any of the restaurants lined up at the seafront will guarantee you excellent views of the ocean while you dine.
Lamu mainland is your plug if you’re looking for budget but equally tasty meal options.
If you’re like me who prefers places that are frequented by locals and is not touristy, then I’d highly recommend Mangrove Restaurant for sampling their array authentic Swahili dishes. They prepare sumptuous meals, and their prices are pocket friendly.
I particularly loved their barbecued tuna and the tamarind juice.
Once in a while when we arrived late and all food was finished, we settled for their French fries. Don’t judge😉.
As Mangrove restaurant doesn’t have any menu, just ask for the day’s specialty or check what others are eating and ask for the same😉.
The One Dune
The sand dunes in Shela is a great place for chasing a sunset while in Lamu.
Get up to the very top of the dunes for a spectacular sunset views of the Indian Ocean below.
Breathtaking!
The One Museum
A World Heritage Site built in 1891 as residence for colonial governors, Lamu Museum is a stately mansion on the Lamu mainland seafront tells and the story of Lamu’s Swahili people.
The clothing, furniture, musical instruments, kitchen items, Swahili wedding, the famous carved doors, and art displays in general exhibited at the museum are particularly compelling, especially for those curious about not only this beautiful island, its past, its present, and its people; but also foreign influences on its cuisine, lifestyle and even economics!
The Lamu Museum’s spaces itself gives a good impression of the Swahili architecture.
You will need at least one hour to fully experience the Lamu Museum.
The One Settlement
The remains of a thriving 15th and 16th century Swahili trading settlement before it was abandoned in the 17th century due to increase in salt content of the once fresh water to unconsumable levels and never-ending fights between the #Takwa and Pate people; Takwa Ruins are located on the south eastern corner of Manda Island and can only be reached during high tide via boat from either Shela or Lamu mainland.
On your way to the view point for the views, you will pass by a small ‘forest’.
Make sure to take several leaves of the Mjafari Tree which is guaranteed to cure all the demons and ghosts in your life😉.
The One Cruise
If you only have time to engage in only one Lamu must do or must see activity while visiting, make it the Dhow cruise to one of the islands.
I went on the full day dhow cruise to Kipungani which came with a Swahili lunch. The best food I had on the island. It was amazing.
View this post on Instagram
The One Festival
Known for being Kenya’s “island of festivals”, there are 17 festivals held in Lamu annually.
But if you must attend only one of these, visit in November for the Lamu Cultural Festival that has taken place annually since inception in 2001, except in 2020 due to the Covid pandemic.
The festival is a special time when the locals take to the streets to showcase their rich Swahili culture, and promote the beauty and uniqueness of the archipelago. The donkey and dhow races are also highlights of the festival.
Other popular festivals in the island include the Shela Hat Contest (every even year around mid-February), Maulidi Festival (around November), Lamu Art Festival (every odd year towards end of February), Lamu Yoga Festival (mid-March), and Lamu Food Festival (September), among others.
One More Thing
Visitors to Lamu usually stay on either Lamu town, Shela, or Manda.
View this post on Instagram
If you ever find yourself in Manda, aside from strolling along the pristine white sandy beaches and swimming in the sapphire-blue Indian Ocean, make sure to stopover at Diamond Beach Village for their wood fire oven baked pizzas.
My personal favorite recommendation is their delicious finger licking sea food pizza… hmmm
Well, there goes the different must do must see activities in Lamu.
The best way though, to experience this amazing coastal destination is by adopting the locals’ signature hyper-chilled “pole pole,” (slowly slowly) lifestyle.
All opinions are my own and do not necessarily represent any establishments mentioned here.
Am not a fun of history but when it comes to food …. Lamu is definitely on my bucket list ❤️❤️. Nice read
Me too Eva. I’m glad you have Lamu on your bucket list. Hope it happens soon!
I love Lamu. Thanks for propping it up like this! I don’t care much for the donkeys but I can ignore them. My husband and his boys are currently sailing around the islands there. Ocean is rough at the moment apparently. Love this article.
I love Lamu too. It was love at first site for me. I can imagine how much fun the husband and boys are having! Thank you for reading. I am glad you liked the article!